The trek from Ajloun to Salt is the second part of the Jordan Trail. This section is much easier than the first one and has beautiful views! Check out my trail journal.
At the invitation of Visit Jordan and the Jordan Trail Association, I am hiking the first eight stages of the Jordan Trail, a 650-kilometer long-distance hike across Jordan. The first four stages from Umm Qais to Ajloun were pretty tough, but I really enjoyed them. This is a trail journal of the second section from Ajloun to Salt.
Day 5: from Ajloun to Khirbet Al-Souq
Starting today, I no longer hike alone, the Jordanese Gheed joins me. However, she has car trouble and is therefore later in Ajloun than planned, so I initially set out on my own. The initial section past the castle on an asphalt road is quite easy, but after that, it gets very tough. First I have to go steeply down a dirt path and then straight up again through the bushes where I can barely find any markers. I am so relieved when I get to the top of the mountain!
After a short break, I continue and pass through the town of Anjara. Here both the markings and the GPS say something different, so it is hard to find the correct route. I keep running into fences or houses where I expect the trail which is very confusing. In the end, I just walk on some roads and I manage to get back on the trail. This trail occasionally offers some extra challenges when it comes to navigation, haha!
By now I have been in contact with Gheed from the Jordan Tourism Board for a few hours; she will join me a little after Anjara. It’s great to finally meet her, we have been in touch for months. Together we walk on to today’s endpoint, the hamlet of Kirbet Al-Souq.
Although the trail is fairly easy to follow (lots of asphalt), it takes us quite a long time. Not only because of the steep climbs but also because a lot of people want to talk to us. It starts with “Welcome to Jordan!” and then a whole series of questions. They are especially eager to know exactly where we are going. We also get these green fruits from everyone, which taste a bit like apples.
In the late afternoon, we arrive in the tiny village, where we sleep in a homestay. The first thing we hear is that the owner has two wives and is looking for a third. Not really something you want to hear as a woman, which also makes me feel quite a bit uncomfortable. After a shower and a tasty meal, we go to bed and lock the door.
- Distance: 16.2 kilometers (I turned on my Strava app and came up with 19.6 kilometers)
- Difficulty: Medium
Day 6: from Khirbet Al-Souq to King Talal Dam
After a delicious breakfast, we hit the road again. Despite the fact that I spent the first five days walking pretty much alone, they figured out that a guide had to come along. I didn’t really like this when I heard it at first, because for me hiking with a guide is a completely different experience. And as I write mostly about solo travel, for me it’s important to share that you can visit a lot of cool places on your own as a woman. But I decide to go along with it, as it’s also nice to share this kind of experience on the Jordan Trail.
The guide is the owner of the homestay with two of his sons, they are nine and eleven years old. They don’t speak any English, so Gheed has to translate from time to time. Today’s stage is very short, but it is the most beautiful so far. We first go up through a valley and then have a magnificent view of the mountains and King Talal Dam.
The trail down is nicely varied, with occasional steep asphalt roads, dirt roads, and even a stretch through tall grass. I take hundreds of pictures, it’s really beautiful. Most of the time, me and the sons lead the way. We play a game of “who finds the marker first” which is quite fun. The youngest kid continuously runs ahead to find the marker. As you can see, the language barrier is not that big of a problem, hand gestures go a long way!
Much faster than I expected, we reach our endpoint for today where we enjoy a beautiful view of King Talal Dam.
Here we are picked up by Sayegh, the owner of the homestay where we sleep for the next two nights. The ride takes quite a long time, as we have to go all the way around the lake, but it gives another nice insight into local life in Jordan.
The homestay in Rmeimeen is really nice and relaxed. Sayegh has lived in America for years and is therefore fluent in English, which is a relief for me. Although I love staying at the local houses, not speaking a language and using Google Translate all the time costs a lot of energy.
The house has a large patio with a porch swing. The views of the surrounding mountains are amazing. We also meet Sayegh’s lovely wife and enjoy an incredibly delicious meal together. This was a wonderful day on the Jordan Trail!
- Distance: 14.6 kilometers (I ended up doing 12 kilometers because we didn’t walk all the way to the dam)
- Difficulty: Medium
Day 7: from King Talal Dam to Rmeimeen
I was briefly woken up again by a mosque at four o’clock, but besides that, I slept wonderfully. After a good breakfast, I can’t wait to go back to the trail again. We make a quick stop at the bakery to see how the local bread is made and then are dropped near the King Talal Dam so we can continue on the Jordan Trail.
Today the owner of the homestay is our guide and we take it very easy. The temperatures have dropped a bit since yesterday, making it easier to enjoy the beautiful scenery. We have to take many breaks because Sayegh has some pain in his knee.
A mile-long trek on an asphalt road follows, and there Sayegh gives up, his son Jason replacing him as a guide. We walk further and further along the asphalt road, there seems to be no end to it and it is mostly uphill. Occasionally we have some obstacles in the form of a flock of sheep or barking dogs, but fortunately, they never really get close.
After a long pause under some trees, we headed back down into the valley. The asphalt road narrows and turns into a dirt road. We walk among different crops and see trees with fruit everywhere. Just before Rmeimeen, we come to a waterfall. A beautiful oasis with an ancient ruin and beautiful views. This is another perfect place for a break.
Unfortunately, I also see a lesser side of Jordanians here; the place is littered with trash. Not only because people who go here leave everything behind, but also because many people just throw everything into the river. It really pains me to see some people treat nature this way.
Fortunately, I have learned that they really want to do something about this problem in Jordan. Eco-tourism is also on the rise here, and the Jordan Trail Association regularly cleans sections along the trail. They ask homestays to use as little plastic as possible when making lunch boxes, and so far I have been given a paper bag every day. The beginning is there, but there is still much to be achieved.
From the waterfall, it’s just a 30-minute hike (steeply uphill) to Rmeimeen. We make a quick stop at the shop before we go to the homestay which I absolutely love. It is the first time that I’m visiting a supermarket in Jordan. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so much candy and chips. We get some ice cream, which I’ve been craving for days.
Since this was another fairly short leg, we get “home” early. I spent most of the afternoon relaxing. Reading a book and talking for a bit with my mother and sister. I miss them and it’s so nice to share this incredible experience with them.
Dinner consists of huge slices of fish, fries, salad, and homemade chips. Something different again and very tasty too! After dinner, we have interesting conversations over a cup of tea. This was another great day!
- Distance: 15.7 kilometers (It was 17.3 kilometers according to Strava, as far as I know, we did not deviate much from the path)
- Difficulty: Medium
Day 8: from Rmeimeen to Salt
I can’t believe it, this is my last day (for now) on the Jordan Trail. After a quick (but delicious) breakfast, Gheed and I hit the trail early. This time without a guide, which is kind of nice as a conclusion of this adventure.
The trail starts out easy on an asphalt road but becomes extremely tough after a few kilometers. Through a grassy field (with thistles) we have to climb steeply uphill. I feel like a goat sometimes haha! It really takes some time to find the best places to walk, sometimes it is so steep that you slip.
At one point we come across a sheperd who shows us a slightly easier route. We eventually come back to an asphalt road on top of the hill. It turns out we took more than an hour over 1 kilometer. Wow!
On the asphalt road, it goes a lot faster again. We soon pass some houses. Although it is still a 10-kilometer hike, these houses also already fall under the city of Salt. We get an invitation for a late breakfast, but since we are still full from the previous breakfast we decline. Instead, we get fruit, I think it’s apricots. They taste great!
After a few kilometers between the houses, we turn onto a dirt road. We walk through a valley among the trees, it’s so nice and peaceful! We take a nice relaxing lunch break and then slowly walk on. From now on, the trail goes mostly uphill. It begins very gradually and becomes very steep at the end. they don’t make it easy for us on this last day! At the top, I look back once more; the view is beautiful!
Then it becomes more and more urban, at one point we even have to cross some kind of highway. For me, this is the scariest part of the Jordan Trail. Gheed has no problem with it; she lives in Amman and is used to these roads.
I am happy when we get to the back streets where there is less traffic. Through many stairs, we descend to the city center of Salt. Around three o’clock in the afternoon, we reached the endpoint of today’s hike. I’ve hiked 150 kilometers in 8 days and I’m pretty proud at myself!
The Jordan Trail was a totally different hike than I expected. It was (especially in the beginning) difficult to navigate and also you have to find your own path frequently. But I did not expect to experience so much culture and then such hospitality! Almost daily I was offered food and drinks or invited by people to join them for a meal or a cup of tea. A unique experience. Hiking these first 150 kilometers was a great experience and I’m definitely going to finish this trail someday. Only 500 kilometers left!
- Distance: 14.6 kilometers (16.5 kilometers according to Strava, I walked a little extra to the hotel)
- Difficulty: Difficult
On the road in Salt
After the end of the Jordan Trail, I’m not going home right away; I still have a full day in Salt. And that is a surprisingly nice city! I sleep in Beit Aziz, a 120-year-old building that is now a restaurant. It also has three hotel rooms, a very special place to spend the night.
Together with Gheed, I drink a cup of coffee at the super cool Aktham’s 1881 Cafe which has several rooftop terraces. Beautiful views and good coffee! Afterward, we go souvenir shopping at the Hammam Street Market. After dinner, we say goodbye to each other. Gheed goes back to Amman while I’m staying in Salt.
The next morning, Laith (the owner of Beith Aziz) leads me around the city and it is very nice to do this with a local. He really knows everyone in town and I am introduced to dozens of people. With a retired professor, I play Manqala, a traditional game. Very fun to do and I manage to win (with a little help).
We visit some colorful stores full of locally made art, I learn more about the history of Salt at the Abu Jaber House, and I get to sample several small dishes at the market.
We have a nice cup of Arabic coffee at La Villa Médan, a very cool new cafe in a sort of old basement. We also visit the beautiful Al Khader church and I get some beautiful tiles from a potter at the Cultural Foundation. I really love it, what a cozy city and here too the hospitality stands out.
After nearly five hours, the tour is over. Originally I had planned to go to the city of Madaba in the afternoon, but we cut that from the program. There is too little time for it and I am also quite tired, so I am happy to take a power nap in my room. After a late (and delicious) lunch, Ali, the driver who also drove me to Umm Qais a week ago, picks me up to take me back to Amman.
Before I leave Jordan, I really wanted to see a mosque. So Ali takes me to the immense King Abdullah I Mosque. I’m only allowed in if I’m fully covered, so at the entrance, I get this big robe to put on. It’s very interesting to walk aroun here, I’m glad we had some time for this.
I end my trip in Jordan with dinner at Romero restaurant with the ladies from Visit Jordan and the Jordan Trail Association. It’s great to meet these amazing women and share my experience.
Back to the Netherlands
After dinner, Ali takes me to the Amman Airport Hotel for my last night in Jordan. The next day, everything goes very quickly. The lines at the airport are long, but fortunately, I make the flight. Royal Jordanian takes me back to Amsterdam in just under five hours. The train ride from Amsterdam to Groningen also goes without a hitch and I am home right before dinner. With a bag full of souvenirs and many amazing stories!
This is the end of my travel diary of the trip to beautiful Jordan. I would like to thank Visit Jordan and the Jordan Trail Association for arranging this unforgettable trip. Jordan is a very special country with incredibly hospitable people. I will definitely return again to complete the Jordan Trail and explore more of this amazing country.
See more beautiful images from my trip to Jordan? Check out my Instagram for fun videos and a series of highlights from my stories.
Read more about Jordan
Would you like to travel to Jordan? These travel guides are very helpful to prepare for an unforgettable trip to Jordan.
The Rough Guide to Jordan (Travel Guide with free eBook)
Whether you plan to visit the magnificent Crusader-period Aljoun castle, go diving in the Red Sea or visit the site where Jesus was baptized, The Rough Guide to Jordan will help you discover the best places to explore, eat, drink, shop and sleep along the way.
Lonely Planet’s Jordan is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Dive the Red Sea, wonder at the spectacular ancient city of Petra, and ride through Wadi Rum at sunset; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Jordan and begin your journey now!
On this website, you can also read more about traveling to Jordan. Read more:
- This is why you should hike the Jordan Trail: a comprehensive guide
- Is Jordan safe for female travelers? My experience & tips
- 16 Best things to do in Amman Jordan
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